Henna and My Best Friends Wedding. A great combo.

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Just so I don’t get too emotional I distract myself with henna until the good parts.

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Decorating light switch faceplate: sculpey

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First roll out sculpey with a rolling pen like device, you may have to use clay softener and knead it some to soften it up enough to work with it. Use wax paper under it so it won’t stick to anything. Make it about 1/4 inch thick, and just big enough to cover entire plate. Don’t worry about the switch holes or screw holes just yet, we’ll get to those later.

Cover the metal faceplate with aluminum foil, conforming it to the surface. Cut out the switches and punch out the screw holes.

I actually glued the sculpey down to the metal plate to give more stability in the end. You can find metal switch covers at Home Depot, they are about $2 each. I found a white one. Look for something that will withstand the heat of the oven (325).

Take the sculpey and after peeling it off the wax paper place it onto a foil covered metal faceplate. trim the sculpey around the outside edges. You can shape the edges how you want with your fingers.

Ok, now you need stamps and sculpting tools if you want to create something from scratch. I used pigment powder and those new style clear plastic stamps, but didn’t use the stamp block (you’ll figure that out when you go to look for them) .

Press the stamps into the sculpey wherever you want to make the impressions. Then take a paint brush and randomly (or orderly) apply the pigment powder to the surface of the clay wherever you want the color. I brushed the green color into the dragonfly bodies and wings, then blended the other colors to create a veragated look. You can practice on sculpey before you roll it out. When you knead it, it will blend into the sculpey too.

Once the design is complete, you can cut out the switch holes and small holes for srcrews, use the actual faceplate as the template. You can use an exacto knife for this cutting. I used a scalpel.

Once you have all the holes ready, and the design complete, you can take the whole thing and bake it to the sculpey specifications. The time and heat are on the package.

When done baking, let the item cool, remove the sculpey from the foil covered plate, remove the foil from the plate, and glue the sculpey to the metal faceplate. I used flexible jewlery glue. I think its called 4000, ill have to check the name and comment later. Let dry, and apply 2 to 3 coats of mod podge to seal the pigment powder to the sculpey. Let this dry, and you are done! Yay!

Decorating light plates: part two. Application of paper

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Decorating light plates. Part three: Clear coat application and dry time.

Drying and clipping to hold the paper in place after coating each plate with Mod Podge. Love this stuff!

I use bull clips to hold the pesky edges down until they dry. Just be sure to remove them carefully, or use some kind of plastic or wax paper in between to keep them from sticking.

Next comes the mod podge. I covered the whole thing, saturating it like paper mache. You may want to do this in steps if you don’t have any clips.
Cover the front and just bend the paper around the sides. Fold one side at a time. Hold each portion until it stays. Do this until all sides are firmly in place. Let all dry.
When dries, coat again with mod podge.

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Drying time. This is where I become impatient. Going to watch some Star Trek.

Decorating light plates. Part one: gathering supplies.

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Mod Podge, Glue (this is special glue stick for crafty things)  🙂

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Paper samples, I use scrapbooking paper that comes in pads, but you can use wall paper, or wrapping paper, or even fabric.

 

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Sculpy and pigment powder (for a molded design)

Metal faceplate for Sculpey design, so that you can bake it.

Plastic faceplate for paper or fabric design.

Paint brushes for powder pigment, and any paint application you want.

I also use Wax paper (for rolling sculpy, and clipping sides down to dry)

Any sculpting tools you think you would use. I used rubber stamps, an exacto knife, and traditional sculpting stylus’.

Faceplate made of paper.

First, cut out about 1/2 inch overhang around faceplate.
Place plate on paper print side facing you. And plate back to you.Cut “x” in each of the switch holes, taking care to cut directly in corners. Turn paper over so print side is down.
Score around each hole lightly, and fold them in.

I found that cutting a triangle shape out of the corner works best for the best coverage of the corner. It takes a little more work to get everything to lay flat, but just keep working the Mod Podge to soften the paper. Just be careful not to tear the paper in the process.

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Next I used glue, but I found that you really don’t need the glue if you use plenty of Mod Podge. I only used it for longevity of the paper adhesion.

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Place plate on glued paper and turn all sides in. Try to mold the paper to the plate, you can use fingernails to crease things in place.

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Clip all edges with bull clips and let dry completely.

Next step: Modge Podge